Review: The Pickled Duck

It's a sunny day in Derry-Londonderry, but walking over a very blustery Peace Bridge has left me somewhat dishevelled and disoriented, like, perhaps, The Drunken Duck that restaurateur Kiera Duddy's parents once owned in Greencastle, Co Donegal, before the recession, alas, forced it out of business. You might say I'm quacking up. But where was I?

Ah yes. Kiera Duddy, owner of The Pickled Duck. Yes, just in case you are wondering, the name was inspired by her folks' old pub, which Duddy herself once managed. It’s one of several irons that Duddy has had in the pub, restaurant and cafe fire, which also include the hugely popular Green Octopus cafe at The Diamond's Austins that sadly closed along with the famous department store.

But onward we must go, and to The Pickled Duck's Shipquay Place premises Duddy moved to once they became available. And the very moment you sit down in the building that once housed Cafe Soul and Cafe Del Mondo, the reason for its popularity immediately becomes apparent – what a warm, homely vibe, and what a lovely view of the Guildhall Square. Let's hope the food matches up.

Now, at lunchtime, gorging on three courses wouldn't be recommended, but these aren't normal circumstances - my stomach is rumbling as fast as the people in the city seem to be walking outside.

So, first up is the soup of the day – a thick carrot and ginger broth served in a big bowl with slices of bread to match. And when I say the bowl is big, I mean really big, like the largest cups you get in Costa. (The coffee shop, of course... I haven't been to Corsica yet.)

It's hot and sweet, perhaps a little too much of both, with a lingering carroty aftertaste. If I had it with a sandwich, it would probably make a fine lunch dish, though I sense that the menu has much more to offer – and I will ultimately be proved right.

What comes next, the duck spring rolls or the panko breaded fish cakes? I don't quite know, initially, as I’m told they're both good, but the zesty mayo and chips on the side sway me in the direction of the fish cakes. And I really can't fault them – softly filled, crisply coated, warm for the heart and light (but right) for the stomach. As for the chips, one bite and I'm in heaven. Cooked at just the right temperature, their texture is as crunchy on the outside and delicate on the inside as you could possibly wish it to be. Best chips in the city? Arguably so.

The mini bakewells, locally sourced from Funky Cakes in the City's Craft Village, are fantastic – and I say this as someone who doesn't normally take cream with his jam-filled buns. Minutes before I devour them – quite quickly, and unashamedly so – a friend passes through and absolutely insists I try the coffee. So a cappuccino it is.
One sip from this self-confessed coffeeholic, and my head slowly nods while a smile broadens on my face. They've got it spot on – hot, energising and frothy. The only thing missing is a pattern on the top, but, since the staff have prepared so much so well, I can forgive this.

Once, Kiera Duddy's family owned a Drunken Duck, now she owns a Pickled Duck. But need she fear a Dead Duck? On this evidence, not in the slightest. This cafe is clearly going places.

Simon Fallaha

The Pickled Duck can be found at 2-3 Shipquay Place, Derry-Londonderry. Their opening times are from 9 am to 6 pm on Monday to Saturday and 10 am to 6 pm on Sunday. Find them @pickledduckcafe.