Review: Fish City

Fish City. Cod Almighty... Would it be trout of order (apologies) if I launched this review with puns? The very title of the Ann Street restaurant is begging for them. You can sea that. But, all jokes aside (for now), I am entering a mixture of the familiar and fresh.

Situated in a bustling urban area near a Caffe Nero, Yo Sushi! and the whole of Victoria Square, John and Grainne Lavery's (yes, they are related to those Laverys of Bradbury Place fame) family business already has an impressive reputation.

Its facade suggests a traditional chippy, and you can order good old fashioned fish, chips, mushy peas, chicken curries and battered sausage suppers (to name but a handful) if you want, sure, but there's a lot more to it than that.

Fish City also present the customer with a three course menu laden with gourmet and healthy alternatives from the fish and meat world, tailor made for class and convenience - all made from award-winning, sustainable, locally sourced ingredients.

Once inside, the inventive, ship-shape and sturdy design of the premises is eye-catching. And handily, I am seated right beside a phone charger, with a wi-fi password in the corner of the menu. What a bonus, having immediate considerations for on-the-go businesspeople - and Grainne is certainly on-the-go, her attentive and personable presence casting an aura of friendly calm over an already relaxing aesthetic. I already feel at home here.

There's no ice in my bottle of Coke, but considering how icy it is outside at the time (sniffle) that's no bad thing. I haven't even eaten yet and already I feel like asking to taste their coffee. Better resist...

After deliberating over a wholetail prawn cocktail and lightly battered scampi, I settle for the smoked haddock chowder as a starter. Sized like a medium cup of coffee, and seasoned well by bacon and sweetcorn, it is hot, filling and substantial.
Yet it is trumped by the small sample of scampi Grainne recommends to me.

Being the fish-loving scamp I (sic) am I can't resist the urchin (sic) to try some, and they may well be the best scampi I have ever tasted. The batter is light and crispy, the fish are thick and tender. Considering how much nutrition and flavouring fried fish tends to usually lose, these are an exceptional surprise, even better with the tartare sauce, carrots and onions provided.

The meals are well timed so that my stomach has more than enough breathing space, and my ears have more than enough time for me to enjoy the background blues, soul and jazz. When my Fisherman Burger arrives, I am definitely ready to eat, though I am less ready for its size.

The Fisherman Burger could also be known as a Zinger Tower Deluxe, were we in a restaurant called KFC (that's Kentucky Fried Cod). Fish City's special burger has six layers - bacon, egg, tomato, onion, rocket and mushy peas - with tartar sauce and the cod fishcake itself. Perhaps the bacon and egg are a little superfluous - everything else in the burger is enough for me - but as far as nutrition and value for money goes, you really can't argue with it. The fish and batter are again exceptional, and the brioche bun is crusty and satisfying.

Dessert is very pleasing, a chocolate brownie with vanilla ice cream given a crunchy texture by walnuts and tang by small dollops of strawberry and mango sauce. Fish City is the sort of restaurant you wander out of wondering, "Where have they been all this time?" They are definitely - with apologies - going plaices. I'll be back for sure.

Simon Fallaha

Fish City can be found at 33 Ann Street, Belfast, and are currently open from 10.30 to 18:30, Monday to Wednesday, and 10.30 to 20:00 Thursday to Saturday. For more information check out fish-city.com.